Journey to the heart of cocoa (part four)

Slava, 2012 Future Business Leader award winner, sponsored by Mars is back with his last post today. Today he talks us through his experience of making chocolate from scratch and what he feels this trip taught him,

Aspiring chocolatier apprentice:
As my trip drew to a close, I got the opportunity to witness the art and magic of chocolate making. For a day, I became a chocolatier apprentice and learned a lot about the old traditions, secrets and techniques of turning fermented cocoa beans into the delicious extract we know as chocolate. My lesson started with the roasting of cocoa beans and my master Alicio guided me through the entire process of blending, conching and tempering of chocolate. I was surprised to learn that white chocolate is made of cocoa butter, which is separated from cocoa liquor in the process of chocolate creation. Finally, I poured the chocolate liquor into the mould and after a few hours I could proudly present my fresh chocolate bars to the MCCS team. Alicio told me that making chocolate the traditional way is an art that requires a lot of patience and skill. Even small variations in the fermenting, drying, roasting or blending processes can cause differences in flavor and quality. There are over 120 distinctive attributes in the taste of chocolate. That is, a particular chocolate type can be more or less sour, bitter, sticky, smoky, fruity etc. However, an average person can only recognize ten different attributes by tasting chocolate. The only person who can taste up to 60 individual attributes is Ed Seguine, who works as a chocolate taste expert for Mars. He has also contributed to the sequencing and annotating of the cocoa genome, playing a key role in the identification of flavor attributes.

Achieving life goals:
The major highlight of the trip for me was the opportunity to plant my own cocoa tree in the rain forest, with my name tag on it. In my home country, there is a saying that a man has to do three things in his life: to build a house, to bring up a son and to plant a tree. I was delighted to be able to accomplish at least one of these goals. In four years, just in time for the Rio 2016 Olympic games the tree will develop its first pods and hopefully be part of the renaissance of cocoa culture in Bahia.
During my trip to Brazil I learned more than I could have dreamed of in such a short time period. Being exposed to a different culture has given me a deeper understanding of our responsibility for the world. Indeed, the entire trip has become an enriching and touching experience for me, which surpassed all my expectations and helped me to gain new perspectives, as well as to contribute my share to improving the status quo of the people of Bahia. Ralph Waldo Emerson once said: ‘Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. ’In this respect, I hope that many other students and young professionals will follow this trail to Bahia and contribute their share to the reconstruction and revitalisation of this diverse and exciting region.

 The finished products. 

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Journey to the heart of cocoa (part three)

Slava is back with his third posting this week and talks us through his crash course in cocoa and his day spent doing community work with Mars.

Have you ever seen a Frankenstein tree? In front of the main building of the Mars Center for Cocoa Science there is a tree, which is known as the Frankenstein tree among associates. It was created by grafting thirteen different varieties of cocoa together. This is why one branch of the tree does not look like the other. It is a natural technique that has been used by farmers for many centuries. On my fourth day, I could get a chance to create my own little Frankenstein cocoa tree by grafting and also get a hands-on experience in cocoa science at the on-site laboratories of the MCCS. For instance, in the biology lab I had a glimpse of the incredible diversity of cocoa and the breeding of nearly perfect clones, which were more resistant to diseases and also had a higher yield. My instructors were the bio-technology engineer Claudia and her assistant. They explained to me the programme that the MCCS undertakes to select the best varieties to multiply, and later on I had the opportunity to plant a few embryos in a glass jar myself. In this laboratory process it is possible to propagate several identical cocoa plants from a single flower – this process is called somatic embryogenesis. Afterwards, we visited the chemistry lab, the micro-biology lab, as well as 'crown jewel' of the Mars Center - the genetics lab. In 2010, a group of scientists under the leadership of Prof. Howard Yana-Shapiro unlocked the sequence of the cocoa genome and published this knowledge to the public domain, so that everyone would have free and continued access to it. Yana-Shapiro, who is Mars-internally also known as the 'godfather of cocoa', said that without engineering higher-yielding cocoa trees, demand would outstrip supply within 50 years, which represents a threat to the global confectionary industry. Jean-Philippe and the MCCS researchers are conducting further scientific experiments and studies to counteract this trend, thereby also helping biodiversity and farmers' welfare in the cocoa-growing region of Bahia. In this regard, my hands-on experience in the genetics lab was very relevant and exciting. In the morning, I have collected cocoa leaves and used a plethora of chemical substances to extract cocoa DNA from these leaves. Studying this DNA would allow scientists to reduce the fat content of cocoa, increase its disease resistance and to increase the yield of cocoa trees. Thus, these kind of improvements could directly affect the lives of some 6.5 million small cocoa farmers around the globe. The focus of the fifth day was anchored around volunteering and community work in the region. The associates at the Mars Research Center engage with almost all local farms and regularly supply them with essentials, such as drinking water, rice, beans and other basic products. That day, I had the chance to go with the MCCS community team on another field trip to visit three farms and to speak to the farmers and identify their needs in order to help them most effectively. 


In the afternoon, I was able to contribute my share to the education of these children by teaching English lessons at the Virginia Mars Municipal School. In spite of the language differences I could connect well with the children and tried to inspire them to be more assiduous in their studies of the English language. In Bahia, a decent command of English is considered a valuable and rare skill, and a real differentiator in the competitive job market. I started my first English lesson with an introduction and a vocabulary brainstorming session around the word 'friendship'. The students were a bit shy in the beginning, but as soon as we started a role play, I could see that they were really engaging with each other and the language. The pupils of my second English class were a bit younger and not as fluent. That is why I have decided to focus on an easier topic: different countries and cities. Later on, we played 'hangman' with the new pieces of vocabulary, which the kids genuinely enjoyed. Seeing the children’s smiling faces was indeed refreshing. After the lesson, Alan, one of my new students took me by the hand and dragged me to the head teacher of the school. I wasn't sure what he wanted to say, as he was explaining something to the head teacher in Portuguese in a very emotional way. Then, my translator said to me that he wanted to introduce me to the head teacher and that he said he would rather have me as an English teacher all year long, than all the other classes together. It was humbling and touching. I wish I could have stayed longer to share my time and knowledge with these avid pupils. 

Cocoa science crash course:

Community work for Bahia:

All of the farms we have visited were in a poor shape and it was truly moving to see the extreme poverty
these people were living in. They didn't have access to electricity, nor did they have drinking water or even the basic hygiene conditions. We visited derelict houses and witnessed how the locals get their water from a hole in the ground in the nearby forest, which was used as a rain water reservoir. This water was claimed to be 'clean' after the locals have thrown a peculiar fish inside, called 'piavi'. This fish is supposed to eat the major insects in the water, so that the water becomes supposedly drinkable. This is a century-old tradition in the region and is considered to be normal. All of the farmers live below the poverty line and it was alarming to see that some of them simply accepted the status quo. The children were also raised as farmers and were taught the traditions of their fathers. During our field trip we met Gilberto, a single father who was raising four children. His love and care for his offspring truly touched me. Despite his difficult situation, he invested everything he had in the education of his children. Gilberto has sent them to the only school in the region - the Virginia Mars Municipal School. He was a frequent visitor to the school himself, where he always eagerly enquired about their progress and what he could do to help his children with their homework. Having no education himself, he wanted to give them a better future. Gilberto explained that he was very happy that his children could go to school, but that he struggled with the materials they needed, such as pens, pencils and college blocks. Fortunately, I had my notepad and a few pens with me, which I happily gave to Gilberto. The family was very happy and I have spent some time with the children, teaching them how to draw houses and trees. In return, the oldest girl, who was ten years old and the only literate child in the family so far, wrote down her name and the names of her brothers with a small thank you note on a piece of paper and gave it to me. I could see that the father was very proud of her writing skills. This experience vividly demonstrated to me how even the smallest things can make a real difference. 


Next week it's Slava's final post about his time at the Mars Center for Cocoa Science, part of his prize for winning the Future Business Leader award. 


If you think you could be 2013's winner apply early to make sure you have enough time to complete the application.

Journey to the heart of cocoa (part two)

Slava is back with his second instalment talking about the journey from finance to farming and a trip to the past.

From finance to farming:
The second day starts very early with a presentation of the activities of the Mars Center for Cocoa Science and a brief history of cocoa production in Bahia by the center’s director Jean-Philippe Marelli. I was surprised to learn that the Latin name of cocoa is Theobroma, which can be translated as ‘food for the gods’ – a very powerful and certainly not incorrect metaphor. Shortly after the presentation, I met my translator for the week, Amanda, who only recently joined the center as a communications intern. What followed was my first hands-on work in the cocoa fields. Guided by experienced farmers, I learned how to plant cocoa seeds, how to do grafting, how to mix the optimal blend of soil for more productive cocoa trees and how to take care of young trees in the greenhouse. In the afternoon, we went to see the agroforestry system of cocoa at the nearby farm ‘cinco porcos’. I noticed that the cocoa pods varied greatly in their shape and, interestingly, in colour. For example, the colours of the pods ranged from dark purple to bright yellow and light green. The reason for that is that cocoa can be divided into several groups with different genetic characteristics, such as Amelonado, Criollo and Forastero. The Mars Center has over 600 types of cocoa in its collection, which represents almost 100% of the cocoa diversity in the world. Most cocoa varieties develop pods up to four times a year, which is why harvesting cocoa pods is in fact a continuous process. Equipped with an enormous halberd, I helped the locals to harvest cocoa pods and to separate the nibs from the shell. This is actually quite a complex job, which requires utmost precision, concentration and speed. Back at the Center, I met my new flat mate Lauranne, who was interning at the Center and studying the carbon foot print of cocoa, an academic area, which hasn't been extensively studied thus far.

A field trip to the past:
Next day, we went on a field trip to ‘PA Brazil’, a settlement for landless people who suffered the consequences of the witches’broom fungus, which had a devastating effect on Bahia’s economy and social welfare in the 1990s. After a 2-hour drive through the Mata Atlantica forest, we arrived at the settlement. The locals welcomed us with delight and showed us around the village. Most of these people used to be farmers, but the new reality of the cocoa disease forced them to switch to less productive crops or cattle breeding. Some of them were working on the old cocoa 'fazendas' of affluent farmers and became unemployed when the rich people abandoned their lands. Some areas have been recovered, but a majority of farms were still abandoned, while the population is living below the poverty line of $1 per day. The farmers I have met were, however, very positive and talkative, despite their extreme situation. Particularly the young generation, who grew up in the cocoa crisis of the 1990s was very curious. They wanted to know everything about me, where I come from, what life is like in Europe and what football clubs I was supporting. I have also met the mayor of the nearest city Barro Preto, who turned out to be quite a cheerful fellow. Together with the MCCS, the city administration jointly invests in the 'PA Brazil' settlements. The farmers proudly showcased to us their banana plantations, brought us fresh coco nuts and guavas and invited us to their community house, which was still in construction. On the one hand, it was shocking to witness the extreme poverty, the abandoned houses and the poor infrastructure of the region. But on the other hand, it was reassuring to see that there was still hope and that no stone was left unturned to help the population to escape poverty.

On  Thursday Slava will be back with more on his time in Brazil, discussing his crash course in cocoa science and his experience of community work in Bahia. 

Find out more about Slava and what he studied here. 

Journey to the heart of Cocoa (part one)

Follow this four part series of 2012 Future Business Leader of the year winner, Vyacheslav 'slava' Polonski as he shares his experience of his trip to Brazil. (Part of his prize for the award).

A volunteering and discovery trip to the Mars Center for Cocoa Science in Bahia, Brazil.  

In April 2012, I had the supreme honour to be chosen as the national winner of the ‘Future Business Leader of the Year 2012’ award, which was sponsored by Mars Inc. at the annual TARGETjos 'Undergraduate of the Year Awards'. I went through a long selection process, which consisted of several tests, interviews, case studies, group exercises and presentations, and was invited with the other seven finalists to the gala awards ceremony in Canary Wharf, London. I remember when Amanda Davies read out my name as the unique national winner of the award, there was a sense of relief and happiness, but it was only when the Rt. Hon Michael Portillo passed me on the glass prize with my name engraved in it I allowed myself to believe it. From that moment I couldn't stop grinning like a Cheshire cat – nothing could wipe the joy from my face. When you realise your dream, it’s euphoric – there is no better feeling. As part of the award, I was given the opportunity to travel to Brazil for a unique experience at the Mars Center for Cocoa Science to get an insight into the history, present and future of cocoa, and volunteer with the farmers and the local school. During my undergraduate studies in Management at the London School of Economics, I never had to deal with cocoa or agronomy and was thus even more excited about the trip.

Arrival in Ilhéus:
After a long flight from London I arrived in the city Ilhéus in the region of Bahia. Ilhéus was once the epicenter of cocoa production and trade in Brazil and even today, every little detail of the town architecture reminds the ‘Baiano’ style of that time. Almost all historic buildings are decorated with cocoa pod ornaments. In fact, cocoa production has always been at the heart of Bahia. As the writer and scholar Hans Ostrom once noted: ‘Inside cocoa beans lies a secret that survives translations of growth and harvest, roast and grind, concoction and confectionary concatenation.” It all started with the ancient Maya and Aztec who used to prepare a coveted drink out of ground cacao seeds and other seasonings. In some cities cocoa seeds were used as a major currency system due to their high value. The relative buying power of quality beans was such that approximately 100 beans could buy a new cloth mantle. In the 18th century, the first cocoa crops were brought to Bahia from the Amazon forest and the city of Ilhéus rapidly became the center of cocoa trade and production in Brazil. The harvest was mostly exported to chocolate factories in Europe and the USA, giving rise to the reign of the ‘colonels’ in Bahia – wealthy and powerful cocoa farmers, who were vividly depicted in the romantic novels of Jorge Amado. During my visits of Ilhéus I had the chance to see many of the authentic locations of the novels, including the Ilhéus cathedral, the Bataclan restaurant that served as a cabaret in the early 20th century, as well as the town museum, featuring an exhibition about the era of the cocoa tycoons. After this sightseeing trip, my first night was spent at a hotel, before moving into the student house near the Mars Center for Cocoa Science in the next morning.

Next Tuesday Slava will be back with more of what he got up to on this life-changing trip.

Apply here if you think you have what it takes to be 2013's Future Business leader award winner.